Lassi

New Tayyabs
83-89 Fieldgate Street
London
E1 1JU

I've always been a defender of lassis ever since one saved me from certain chili-related death in a curry house over a decade ago. These watery yoghurty shakes are a balm to fiery tongues and throats - the soothing dock leaf to the balti stinging nettle. I was a little disturbed to see a salty version on offer at Tayyabs Pakistani restaurant, where we had gathered for a spiced meat feast, and went for the sweet one instead (two quid). When it was served in a pint-sized metal bucket, chilled and only slightly sweet, I realised I should have ordered an entire jug of the stuff (five quid). Mine was unpolluted by fruit, although D rated his mango one highly too. The lassi's pleasing qualities got us wondering what it might socialise with - and the consensus was rum. I'm not sure how lassi traditionalists would feel about such spiking, but since frozen yoghurt seems to be so sought after these days, I'm sure something even more delicious could be made of the lassi too.